One of the more common damages occur on the corner of the bumper, this can be from scraping a pole or some kind of car park damage. Although there is a bit of work required to make the bumper looking new again, its a relatively simple process. Hopefully one you have read this step by step process and watched the video, you will have a better idea and have the confidence to give it a go and save $$$.

See full video of the process at the bottom of this post below the instructions


Step 1) – Clean Surface

I Used  wax and grease remover on a lint-free cloth to remove  any contaminants (bugs, grease, silicons and polish) that may have been on the bumper, I repeated using the wax and grease remover a few times.

Once I was happy that I had cleaned the bumper properly, I let the wax and grease remover residue evaporate off for about 10 minutes.

Step 2) – Colour Match

I knew I needed paint once I had cleaned the area, so before I started sanding the area, I went and matched the paint and then put it into a Custom-Made Aerosol. It always pays to do this as there is often variations of the colour, due to production line, factory to factory, different substrates (The colour variants are often not on the vehicle).

Step 3) -Sand Surface

Using 400g wet and dry, I feathered out the damaged areas until I was happy that it was smooth. I was lucky that the damage wasn’t deep enough that I needed to use any Plastic Filler.

Step 4) – Prime Sanded Areas

There was a few light scratches and minimal bare plastic, so I decided to use as spray can of Bumper Fill. I then masked the bumper off.

Once masked (which takes time) I used a tack cloth to take off any hair or particles that may have fallen on the surface, then I applied 3 coats of Bumper Fill (primer) on all the sanded areas waiting about 5-10 minutes between coats. I then waited about 1 hour to dry.

Note: Make sure that the primer goes on smooth and not rough. If it does, you may need to come a little closer or slow down.

Step 5) – Sand Primer

I sanded the primed areas with 400g dry paper and then did a final sand with 600g dry paper. I prefer using Dry paper to sand primer as primer is known to be porous. Some times it may pay to use a ‘Guide Coat’ to help see where you are sanding and reveal any imperfections.

Note: If you happen to rub through any of your primed areas, primer those areas again with a couple of coats waiting 5 – 10 min between coats and allow primer to dry again.

Step 6) Colour

I wiped over the area to get rid of any excess dust using a lint-free cloth and then used a ‘tack cloth‘ to lightly wipe over the bumper before I sprayed the colour down to get rid of any hair or light dust that may have landed on the surface.

I then applied 3 medium coats over the repairs, blending in towards the primed areas, allowing 5 – 10 minutes between the coats (make sure the coats are all even and no ‘tram’ lines are visible). I then left the Colour to dry for 30 mins.

Note: In the video I demonstrated using a value shade (dark grey) ground coat. This is essential on poorer coverage colours but also helps coverage and accuracy for colours. You should value shade over ALL primed areas, I was merely demonstrating what a value shade was and its purpose.

Step 7) Clear Coat

If you like, use a tack cloth again before applying the clear coat.

There are many Clear Coats available, in this case I am using a single pack clear but may add a section at the bottom of this blog if you are using a 2k Clear.

I applied a medium coat of Clear over the bumper, bringing the clear up to the edges of the bumper and blending it into a narrow part of the bumper. I waited about 5 minutes and then applied a further full 3 coats of Clear, making sure that it came “Glossy” out of the can. I overlapped each pass about 50 – 70%.

Note: Applying Clear Coat can be tricky, so make sure that you have good lighting and stand off to the side slightly so that you can see the clear going onto the job.

Alternate 2k Clear Coat Step

I took this from another blog of mine – painting a motorbike in spraycans. So if you want, follow it up for more details.

Its important to Clear each part separately as applying the 2K Clear can be time restrictive and time sensitive.

I cleaned the surface with Waterbased Prep Wash using a Lint-Free cloth and allowed residue to to evaporate off ( a few minutes).

Just before I applied the 2K Clear, I used a Tack Cloth to lightly wipe over the surface to remove any dust or hair that may have landed on the surface.

I applied the 2K Clear with a light mist coat (or ‘tack coat’) over the surface and wait will the mist coat ‘tacks’ off (goes sticky like sticky tape) roughly 2 – 4 minutes. What I found is I used the LID of the spray can of 2K Clear as a testing piece by applying an equivalent coat over the Lid (the same as what I just sprayed down as a mist coat). That way I could test the LID to see if its ‘tacky’ and ready for another coat.

I then applied a ‘Gloss Coat’. What I mean by this is  I made sure that the Clear became glossy behind where I applied the clear ( basically, how the Clear goes on is how its going to dry). Once the coat was ‘tacky’ (without forgetting to put the equivalent coat on my testing LID), I applied a further 3 wet coats (waiting for the 2K Clear to ‘tack’ off between coats)

Note: Distance and Speed is important as well as the overlapping of each coat. This will help get the best gloss and not make the Clear run or look dry. I overlapped about 50%.


From start to finish it took me about 3 hours, don’t forget I spent while waiting for things to dry and masking

Products Used:

  • 1 x sheet 400g Wet n Dry
  • 1 x sheet 400g Dry Paper
  • 1 x sheet 600g Dry Paper
  • Rubbing block
  • Wax and Grease Remover
  • 4 x Lint-Free Cloths
  • 1 x Tack Cloth
  • 1 x Spray Can Bumper Prime
  • 1 x Custom Made Spray can – Colour
  • 1 x Spray Can Clear
  • Roll of 36mm Masking Tape
  • Roll of 12″ Masking Paper

Rough total cost $140.00 (excluding the Value Shade Primer)

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